Central Market
You gotta love the stacked green arrangement
Once a large moat, later drained during the French colonial period, Central Market Phnom Penh, or Phsar Thom Thmey (literally “New Grand Market”), is arguably the most famous market in the city. It’s instantly recognizable thanks to its iconic Art Deco dome, a reminder of its colonial architectural roots.
To be honest, I’ve never fully understood why “Phsar Thmey” gets translated as “Central Market” instead of “New Market.” I’ve even asked around, but no one seems to have a clear answer. One of those small, persistent mysteries.
I’ve been here countless times, at all times of the day, and markets in Cambodia almost feels like a living organism, constantly shifting depending on when you visit.
In the morning, it’s all about breakfast. The options are endless, but after years of trial and error, I have a clear favorite: bai sach jrouk srob teuk prokong, grilled pork and rice drizzled with a rich, savory prawn sauce. It’s simple, deeply flavorful, and incredibly satisfying. And you absolutely have to pair it with akao ktis, a soft rice cake topped with warm coconut cream sauce, freshly lifted from the steamer. Just one vendor is doing it, you can’t miss it.
The stall lady at my favorite lobster sauce pork rice
Lobster sauce Bai Srob
By noon, the atmosphere shifts. Some breakfast vendors disappear, replaced by lunch stalls, while others adapt their menus. Then in the evening, the market transforms again. The west side becomes especially lively, with seafood, boiled meat skewers, and local favorites like lot cha (stir-fried short noodles) taking over. It’s a completely different energy, more relaxed, and perfect for wandering and tasting.
The layout of the market itself is worth exploring. The east side is filled with fresh flowers, colorful and fragrant. The central dome houses rows of jewelry sellers, glittering under the filtered light. Toward the south, you’ll find a smaller section with art and miscellaneous goods.
If you’re planning to shop, I’m sure you know to be ready to haggle; it’s part of the experience. Negotiations can be a bit intense at times, but they’re rarely unfriendly. There’s a certain warmth underneath it all that makes the exchange feel human rather than transactional.
Whether you come for the food, the architecture, or just the atmosphere, this market is one of those places that captures a slice of Phnom Penh’s daily rhythm.
Happy eating, happy shopping! And trust me, bring a fan.
Akao Ktis fresh from the steamer
West wing of the market
